San Pancho is Sayulita ten minutes north and about a decade behind, in the good way, and La Perla is the bar that makes the case. Palapa roof, toes in the sand, cold beer and margaritas, and none of the design-forward cocktail programme that has taken over its neighbour down the coast. This is the local hang at the southern end of a beach that runs longer, wider and emptier than Sayulita’s. Sunset is the whole activity in this town and the west-facing sand here is where people do it. Get there by half five in winter if you want a seat for it.