El Solar sits on the sand at Playa Camarones in the 5 de Diciembre neighborhood, north of the tourist crush on Los Muertos. There is no entry charge and no minimum, which in Puerto Vallarta puts it in a shrinking category. The bar leans mezcal, and the jalapeno mezcal margarita is the one regulars order without looking at the list. Food is Mexican comfort cooking, tacos and sharing plates, priced for people who live here rather than people on a seven day itinerary. Dogs wander through. Live music turns up on weekends. It is the kind of place where you arrive for one drink at five and leave somewhere on the far side of sunset, barefoot, having made friends with the table next to you.