La Gaviota sits at the southern end of Playa La Ropa, past most of the traffic, and is the one people on the beach name when you ask where the locals eat. Seafood platters are the order, big enough to argue over, and live music turns up at sunset. From this end of the horseshoe you can walk the coastal footpath around to Playa Las Gatas, or wave down a water taxi from the pier if the walk has stopped appealing. Tables sit on the sand and nobody is in any hurry to turn them over.