Savaneta is Aruba’s oldest town and still very much a fishing village, which is exactly why the tables here sit where they do. Flying Fishbone opened on this crescent bay in 1997 and takes credit for popularizing on-the-beach dining on the island. Not toes-in-the-sand as a figure of speech, but tables set out far enough that the tide comes up over your feet between courses. After dark it is tiki torches and table lanterns and not much else. The seafood comes from the market down the road, and Savaneta’s Seafood History has been on the menu since opening night. It is about twenty minutes south of the high-rise strip, which is roughly nineteen minutes further than most visitors ever get. Book ahead and ask for a water table, or do not bother coming.