On the James River in Surry County (the quiet, agricultural, and deeply underappreciated south bank of the James River opposite Jamestown Island), the Surry Seafood Co. delivers fresh local seafood and cold drinks with the extraordinary historical and natural setting of a Virginia waterfront that has been inhabited since before the English arrived. The Jamestown Ferry connects Surry to the tourist circuit across the river; the Surry Seafood Co. connects it to what matters.