Moko Jumbie is the Caribbean stilt-walking spirit, the tall figure that turns up at carnival on legs twice the length of anybody’s, and it is also a drink at Nu Love that is not written on anything. You have to ask for it. The rest is straightforward: cushioned loungers set right at the waterline, a front-row package that undercuts the bigger operations either side, and turtles that surface close enough in front of the bar that people mention them before they mention the food. Nine to five daily on the Philipsburg boardwalk. Smaller and less packaged than its neighbours, which is exactly why the value runs better. Ask for the Moko Jumbie and see what arrives.
There are more like it in the St. Martin and Sint Maarten guide.