You have to know about Burdines to find it — turn east off US-1 at 15th Street in Marathon, wind past the lobster traps and the old marina, and arrive at one of the Keys’ most authentic waterfront bars. The Chiki Tiki sits upstairs in a working marina and fuel dock building, which gives it both excellent water views and the kind of real Keys atmosphere that can’t be manufactured. The hand-cut french fries with “fry dust” have achieved legendary status in Marathon. The fried key lime pie is a must. Seafood is fresh and honest, prices are fair, and the crowd is a happy mix of locals, liveaboards, and visitors who got the tip from someone who’s been coming for years.