Ruschmeyer’s started as a fish camp in 1952 on the edge of Fort Pond and became, over the decades, one of those Montauk spots that everyone had a story about — either the party version or the quieter version that came after. The current iteration, reopened under new management, has grown up considerably: 19 cabin retreats, a serious kitchen, an outdoor lounge with fire pits, and a bar that runs late on weekends. The Fort Pond setting is the constant. The lounge version of Ruschmeyer’s is genuinely excellent at what it does — come for cocktails after sunset and decide how long you stay from there.